We had a quick lunch at a place we found that sells baguettes then it was off to see the historic district where ninja’s resided. Now, to me it looks a lot like the historic place where the geisha’s worked, but that’s just me, I am sure the keen eye can spot the “ninja” aspects.
The Ninja temple with boltholes and secret staircases, unlike every OTHER historic site which are closed on Wednesday is closed on Monday (today). Which sucks as you need a reservation to get in to begin with. So we went to a museum of a house on the historic ninja street that had a guide who spoke NO English whatsoever but let us take a picture with his traditional umbrella.
Was this the home of a famous umbrella maker? Or an artist? Or a ninja who loved umbrellas? Who knows?So no ninja temple for Linda; instead we went to an Edo period pottery place begun by a samurai family who created the first kiln in this prefecture. They had VERY nice pottery which took three firings, and a week in each cooling, beautiful but also cost the same as a down payment for a small condo. And as a person who drops a LOT of things on a regular basis we decided this wasn’t the investment for us. We did ask the son of the owner if he could recommend a Wagashi shop. Wagashi is a type of confectionary which is handmade, takes a few years (??) and is only sold in certain older cities (Kanazawa and Kyoto specifically). I had been recommended by Shigeru-san of the disability organization to try and find some in Kanazawa to understand the ‘nature of Japan.’ The son recommended only three stores in all of Kanazawa which he said were ‘true’ Wagashi stores, one named Moroeya was close by so we visited it.
Wagashi is supposed to contain many of the elements of Japanese art, much like Haiku, flower arranging and gardens. There are the seasons, the hand crafting, the different shapes (often influenced by nature or tradition) and the presentation (the types of boxes it comes in).
We have a double dictionary, so we would point to a type of Wagashi and the woman at the shop would look up the Kanji and hand it back and we would read: “Salty” and think that MIGHT not be the best gift. We also tried several types she gave us samples of including sweet bean curd (I liked it, Linda did not), and fermented soy (I was sort of, “Hmmm,” and Linda was “Ack!! AHHH! Ack!” and clawing at her bag for water….very subtle!). We found some sweet ones, which were the traditional hand shaped and the oldest types as well as some thin wafers painted with flavours. We decided to get some of these cute two and three box drawers of sweet Wagashi which are the perfect gift, particularly as after being told “Presento” they were wrapped in presentation paper.
We picked quite a few different packages as it seemed a good gift to give albeit a little expensive for candy. However this is “historic” candy as the shop has been open since 1878 (our candy is newer). I particularly liked this box with the woman in the kimono on it (I have this thing for Kimono’s – sue me!); it has individually wrapped double hand made sweets – so I got one of those too.
The woman wrapped all of our gifts and then put them in a box and sealed that too. We wheeled about 8 stores down, went into the post office and sent it surface to Port Angeles, where it should show up in about 2 weeks. It was really inexpensive to post too! Haha! Now our Wagashi is safe on the way to our home where we can gloat over it.
After that we went on to the department store Daiwa where I was on the hunt for Bento Boxes (lunch boxes). I found a ton in the Hello Kitty section where the salesperson (woman about 24) was dressed as a schoolgirl. But the boxes were too small, about the size for a 5-10 year old. We went down a floor to find the “adult” bento boxes (I am still hunting Anime Bento Boxes, Boy-love Bento Boxes, etc). I decided to be a good ‘housewife’ and get a Bento box gift for Linda and choose this classic lacquered one which has two sections (hot food below, and cold snacks and sweets above); the bottom section can even be microwaved!
I WILL convert Linda! But don't tell her I bought it, I want it to be a surprise. Of course, how could I send her out with just her Bento Lunchbox? I needed a little bag for her to carry it on the bus or attach to her bike (in anime, Bento is how everyone knows that someone cares about you! Anime IS life, right?). I like how they have instructions on how to put the box inside and pull the drawstrings tight.
We are off tomorrow at noon to Nara to see the deer and then the next night to Hamaiji Castle (something like that spelling), followed by a day in Kobe and a night in Hiroshima before going to Miyajima Island (Linda and the monkeys….remember). So tonight we went out to dinner and Linda chose….Mexican.
Actually pretty good Mexican for Japan. I do promise we will eat a traditional Japanese Soba or other traditional meal while in Japan. It Is just Linda blames her Bento on being sick (I know it was more than a day later). So we are working back up to it. Also being offered deep fried balls of octopus at festivals isn’t helping (Linda and I don’t eat seafood….and we are in JAPAN).I would write more but I am determined to try and get 20 postcards done and posted by the end of the day tomorrow so I will sign off now. It may have rained for much of today but we did things that were pretty fun and unique (like trying fermented soy candy!).
Signing out from Kanazawa: a nice couple of days in the “Little Kyoto” on the western shore of Japan.
P.S. - apologies again for the delay in replying and posting as we do not have internet in our room (this city), only a small little portal in the lobby, which means a lot of late night wheeling and bribing of the night staff to let me in to comment and post.



15 comments:
Those candies look delicious. After they go to that much trouble to wrap it, you almost don't want to UNwrap it. At the very least you are exquisitely careful.
Or maybe that's just me.
That Bento box is gorgeous!
And that was a rest day?!
Posts like this, with shopping and winding down, also give a very good picture of what it's like to be in Japan. Good luck with your next journey - I hope it goes smoothly this time and that Linda manages to find some delicious Japanese food with definite health-giving properties.
Were there any Japanese aspects to the Mexican food?
And thanks for keeping us all up-to date on your travels.
Bossy moment - quit apologizing, woman! We're ecstatic you're posting at all. And don't worry about replying to comments - go! Have fun!! IMHO, anyway. A-hem.
I continue to be bowled over by your experiences. It feels like I'm there with you (except without the altitude sickness - phew!). Greta pictures, too!
Oooh, monkey pictures soon! Almost as good as black squirrel pictures. And your kimono is LOVELY (I know it was in the last post but I am just catching up after a weekend of unpacking boxes). I have been reading a lot about bento boxes lately... seems many people in the Western world have gotten into the hobby of packing them. Interesting, I can't even remember to pack a sandwich...
Wow the Wagashi is beautiful! I love that candy, paper and pretty much everything are works of art.
Are you going to put on your kimono again for pictures in one of the gardens you visit? That would be fantastic to do. As for badminton - why not?
Remember to hide passports, rail passes and everything else important from the deer.
Oh, how fun! Yes, if I were in a historic city in Japan and saw a Mexican restaurant, I'm afraid I would have to try it, too. Just would have to.
Linda looks quite natural under a parasol. I can easily picture her in 1890s European garb, pale lavender I think. Funny how that one image brought this other entirely unrelated one to mind.
Well, this is just me, but I don't think you should apologize for not commenting fast enough. I have read others say that enjoying the trip is the important thing and I agree with that.
Just reading your blog these last few days feels like a crazy valuable gift, that I never expected to get.
I'm glad the last few days have been free of JR confrontations. Perhaps if they spent a few days in a wheelchair they would have a more useful perspective.
Looks wonderful...fun little boxes are almost as much fun as little dishes (another fetish of mine just ask cheryl I'm obsesed). Eating Mexican sounds so wierd in Japan....don't often think of that...now get some rest before you see the Monkeys.
Soundslike things are going better for you now... in fact, it all sounds fantastic. Just as long as you don't have to catch any trains, I guess.
I did contact a couple of Japan travel organisations and JR, and got the following reply:
"I am sorry to hear that Japan is not as helpful as they could be when it comes to offering assistance with wheelchair accessibility! I hope that in the future Japan Rail will be able to give more help for people like your friend who have a somewhat disappointing trip to Japan due to their lack of preparation and experience with wheelchair users.
Thank you for informing us as it will be beneficial to tell other similar people if they are also planning a trip to Japan."
Hmm, not very helpful. I'm not sure who they are suggesting was unprepared, but it rather sounds like they might think it was you! Cheek, eh?
Enjoy the rest of your trip... I'm off on my own travels now, and so won't be blogging again until 1st May.
Wow - I just read this and day 6 together. Sounds a lot more relaxed than tokyo. I'm so excited to share these gems from your trip.
Wanted to let you know I received your gorgeous postcard today and the handmade paper survived the mail really well! I am thrilled!
Thank you so much.
Hey, awesome! You're in Japan!
Sorry for not having commented on any of your previous Japan posts - i've been *incredibly* busy the last week or so, and making myself not check any blogs/websites which i would feel obliged to comment to if i read them (among which yours is one of the foremost)... but, well, looks like you've had a couple of nightmares, but been having a fantastic time overall, and i'm envious of you...
The insights into disability awareness (or lack thereof) in another culture are also really interesting...
Thank you for taking so much time out from your trip just to blog about it! As a blog reader, i feel honoured that it's that important to you...
Congratulations on getting there :) I hope the happiness effect from that is lasting for both you and Linda...
dawn: yes, I know, it is like art that you have to decide when to eat! I am hoping Linda is wooed over by the Bento Box too!
Kathz: Linda is slowly moving towards Japan, tonight she got ITALIAN - so that is closer to Japan, right? Um, japanese aspects...no. But I have told her we HAVE to have one meal before we go traditionally (she says she wants a Korean Bar-b-que, which I point out isn't actually a JAPANESE dish - it is a Korean one). She says, "It's closer!"
Lene: I know but I miss the community of blogging, you know people commenting on comments and such but don't worry this blogging is my HIGH pressure down time. I will go have fun, as I can!
Veralidiane: Hey, there are DEER pictures in today's post, and hopefully monkey pictures if Linda doesn't stare them in the eye and they bite her! Anyway, glad your move is going....well, going.
Cheryl: Yes, the candy is very pretty and Japanese and will be hard to snack on while computing if you know what I mean.
As for wearing the Kimono over here, I would need a pro to tie the obi as people here know that stuff and if I had a not perfect obi people would probably laugh or something.
Saraarts: Linda looked so good under that traditional Japanese waxed umbrella we are going to go see how much one cost from THE place to buy your Japanese umbrella in Kyoto - await further developments
em: I think a day or two in a wheelchair would be a gift of insight for anyone and the executives of JR REALLY need a gift. I am glad the blogging is being enjoyed as I like to blog and it helps me keep track of the days and what happens before they all blend together.
Had a bit of a JR issue today but nothing big.
Maggie: Deer today and monkey's in a couple of days - I am sure you can come up with many diseases we can get by feeding deer? I didn't know you were into tiny dishes and stuff - wow, I could have USED that info a few days ago. Got you something (VERY LITTLE SOMETHING), so look in the post soon.
Kate J: actually that's pretty much what they told me too. It is my fault, JR is supreme in all things and if they aren't well....the conductor can't be found.
Have fun on your travels!
RachelCreative: I am glad you got your postcard, but that was before we got our Pirakura (sic) pics so will try to send you another postcard as time permits so you get the FULL experience. Glad the paper arrived okay. And that the writing is interesting (sorry, can't edit as much as I would like).
Shiva: Thanks, things have a few hiccups but are going pretty good overall. I am glad it is a good read and of COURSE I would blog since I consider my blog readers my family (well since some of them adopted me AS family as well).
Cheers!
Oh I love the postcard and the message :o)
Here's my response (when you get an opportunity to look - no rush)
http://rachelcreative.wordpress.com/2008/04/08/the-story-behind-day-340/
Some of those Wagashi look like little pink bottoms :).
I think it's safe to say Linda's suspicions about the Bento making her sick are correct if you were ill too. Eating the local food were you can see it being made is far safer.
I'm excited about the Monkeys, hope you took lots of photos :D.
I love the look of those boxes and the candy. Beautiful.
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